Paris and Beyond

Our Personal Tour de France & Other Exciting Adventures!

Dimanche is a Day of Rest

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Our first full day in France and we followed through with our plan to rest and relax before we got too enthusiastic about doing all kinds of things. We slept in and then made a light breakfast with a few things we had purchased after settling in and recovering the previous evening. Then we discovered our local boulangerie — only a few steps away from our apartment (yes!!) What am amazing array of pastries and breads for much less than US prices. Our pain du jour cost the equivalent of $1. I’m going back tomorrow for that scrumptious-looking apricot pastry I saw. Next stop — a neighborhood Sunday farmer’s market where all the locals stock up for the week as did we with delectable meats and cheese plus many fresh fruits and vegetables for our evening repast. We were definitely the only American’s there and Norman did an impressive job with his French. However, Sunday is typically a day of rest for the French. Many businesses, restaurants, and markets are closed. We had one pressing need on our shopping list — toilet paper — for all our apartment’s amenities this particular item was minimally provided. In the end, we had to settle for purchasing it at a tiny minimart.

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Located on the Left Bank, our neighborhood is the 14th Arrondissement better known as Montparnasse. This is where you will find the Tour Montparnasse (the famous Parisian skyscraper), the Gare Montparnasse (train station), the Cité Internationale Universitaire de Paris (university) and the Stade Charléty (sports stadium). Montparnasse is also known as an artist community and is home to a variety of small museums and galleries. This is where many famous artists and intellectuals like Simone de Beauvoir, Jean-Paul Sartre, Max Ernst and Pablo Picasso lived and spent their days.

Bon Voyage

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Getting on our Air France flight to Paris involved the usual routine of going through security, waiting, boarding, getting the luggage settled, and trying to get as comfortable as possible in your seat. Right away I noticed our aisle seat partner was Mr. Fidget. He must have had too much coffee or some such caffeinated drink because he couldn’t sit still for anything. The good thing about this was the fact that he was up out of his seat off and on during the entire 10 1/2 hour flight which gave us multiple opportunities to move around as well.

The flight attendants went through their drill of explaining all the necessary safety information in French then in English. The only reason I understood any of it was because I knew what they were supposed to be saying. Even their English, spoken with the same lilt and accent as French was fairly unintelligible. We used our limited French to get in the spirit of the trip while communicating with them during meal service. It’s not too challenging to say, “Vin rouge, s’il vous plaît.” But it gave us the confidence that we had brushed up enough to navigate through our journey in French when necessary.

Besides eating to entertain ourselves, we read (Why We Love France but not the French) and watched movies. There were a million choices on individual screens. I always jump at the chance to watch a romantic drama when I don’t have to share so my choice was “The Vow”. Mr. Fidget was bilingual — maybe British. He watched several movies and some TV shows non-stop until we landed. If it was in English, he had French subtitles and in French he had English subtitles. I should have been doing that, but I didn’t want to make such a lesson out of it. At one point, a man collapsed onto the floor as he passed by us and the crew had to administer oxygen until he was finally able to stand again and be escorted back to his seat. The flight attendants didn’t seem very alarmed and took him back to his seat in a rather business-like manner. Perhaps some people put on such an act hoping to garner a seat in first class. I was just worried we would be diverted to some unplanned landing location.

We slept fitfully as one usually does on such a flight and arrived with the typical fatigue and discomfort of sitting in one place for too long. Deplaning, going through customs, and picking up our large checked bag were uneventful. Then the fun of navigating the French public transportation system with all 3 of our bags began. This always the moment when you ask yourself, “Why did we bring all this stuff?” The first step was to take the RER train into Paris. Norman had one of our two smaller bags tethered to the top of the large rolling bag. Due to the combined size and weight of these two bags, we were unable to use the escalators. Fortunately, there were elevators but using them to get to the train required many extra steps. We were well equipped with Euros, but had few coins — the only type of currency accepted in the ticket machines. Credit cards are an option but apparently not for us as the machine refused the efforts we made to use ours. Once Norman secured €18,50 in coins, we were finally on our way with two tickets for this leg of the trip to our apartment in Paris. After about 45 minutes, we arrived at the Metro station where we had to transfer to the local subway. Here we encountered no elevators, few escalators, and LOTS of stairs both up and down in various directions in order to arrive at the platform for the correct line. By now, Norman was about ready to leave the large bag behind and we almost had to as it barely fit through the luggage gate. We had a short ride on the Metro, negotiated another maze of stairs and arrived on the streets of our Paris neighborhood ready to make the last haul on foot. We did this at a rather frenzied pace since by now we were almost an hour late for the agreed meeting time with the owner of the apartment — all the while our minds trying to convince our bodies that we weren’t completely fatigué.

Finally, we had arrived at our destination. We entered the building code we were given and rang the apartment. The owner, Madame Faure, a jovial older women came down to greet us and escort us to the apartment via one very tiny elevator. She was wonderful and patient about explaining everything and wanted to be sure we approved of the accommodations before she accepted the rest of our payment as if we were going to make another choice at this point. However, she did not speak or understand any English and being exhausted both physically and mentally at this point, we were more than challenged communicating with her. We managed and at last had the keys to our apartment which we decided we should try out to see if we could get back into the building after Madame Faure left. This experience produced the most anxiety of the entire day.

Norman went downstairs and out to the front of the building with one set of keys and I stayed in the apartment with the other set. The key fobs contained a sort of remote which we did not really understand how to use. He was gone for too long so I knew something was wrong and he was probably stuck outside meaning I needed to rescue him — no cell phones to communicate with each other. For a few minutes we hung in the balance of me locked in and Norman locked out. I really couldn’t figure out how to get out of the building. What if we were stuck for rest of the night with no way to call anyone for help? This was not a good way to begin a vacation. After several minutes, I made it out the front door and holding it open for fear of being locked out too, shouted to Norman who had begun walking around trying to figure out how to scale the building or at least, break in. Then we figured out that all you had to do was swipe the key fob over a rather inconspicuous security logo to gain entrance to all the doors. What a relief! Ok, now we were in control and on our way to a fantastic adventure.

Forget anything?

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One of the reasons I pack so far in advance of our vacations is that I really don’t like to forget anything. I try to think of every possible scenario and what we might need. I make list after list and check them off as I go. I almost never get everything checked off until the very end because I always think of one more necessity that will make the trip a success. I used to do this the old-fashioned paper/pencil way but now I’ve gone digital. I use my iPhone and iPad for every task. My favorite app for list-making is Dropkick. It’s clean and clear plus it syncs between both devices seamlessly. And it has checkboxes — I love checking off checkboxes!

I have to clarify that we really didn’t forget anything… that I can think of so far. However, Norman is always misplacing little things — most notoriously his Apple headphones. They go missing for days hidden somewhere in an unidentifiable jacket or pants pocket. A couple of days ago, he went to the Apple Store with the specific purpose of acquiring a new set of headphones for our trip. The ones he had weren’t working so well and he is always able to charm them into exchanging anything that doesn’t work. As we were preparing to leave for the airport, he realized once again that he couldn’t find them. Since someone was picking us up to drop us off at the CalTrain station for our journey to SFO, we didn’t have time to look in every nook and cranny. I promised Norman I’d buy him some at the airport.

We intentionally arrived at the airport very early so we could just hang out and relax before our flight. Once we settled in to a spot near an electrical outlet (surprisingly not so easy to come at such a large airport), I sent Norman off to the electronics store to pick out some headphones. He was gone for a long time and when he finally returned, he came back a Rasta man with the coolest pair of headphones ever! They’re called Smile Jamaica In-ear Headphones from the Bob Marley Jammin Collection. (http://www.thehouseofmarley.com/in-ear-headphones/smile-jamaica-in-ear-headphones.html) Not only are they really cool looking, but they block out external noises and sound terrific. On top of that, they’re made out of really unique Earth Friendly materials. As soon as I tried them out, I had to have a pair too but, of course, I didn’t want the exact same color. I did my own shopping and discovered they did, indeed, have another version. So Norman has the Rasta ones with the green earbuds and I have the Fire (appropriate if you know me well) ones with the red earbuds.

The first exciting purchase of our trip — Bob Marley headphones. Now we are ready for… Ja-maica mon! But wait — we’re going to France.

Ready for Takeoff

After almost 4 months of planning and preparation, we are finally ready to get this vacation off the ground. The “flight check” list seemed never ending. For the last two weeks, every item we checked off the top of the list generated another to add to the bottom. A 7-week trip creates a lot of things to consider taking care of so you won’t have to worry about them while you’re having fun far away from home — the bills, the plants, the mail, etc. Trying to pack the perfect suitcase is a challenge and taking care of all your personal appointments is an absolute must. Then there’s the mundane stuff like doing the laundry and cleaning the house because while you know you’re going to really enjoy this vacation, when you return to your own modest 1400 sq. ft., it’s going to seem like a palace compared to French standards.

Using Rosetta Stone, we have worked hard to recover the French we learned so long ago in college. Norman has been a better student than I have. He’s also more confident about jumping in and speaking the language plus he does a great imitation of the French. He’s very convincing and will certainly garner much attention and approval with his efforts. I will certainly be depending on him to get us around and through all our experiences. I understand much of what I hear and read but am not really good at producing complete sentences. However, I do have some magic words ready like “bonjour” and “au revoir” for entering and leaving a store. Small businesses in France are considered an extension of a person’s home so it is common courtesy to use polite phrases upon entering and exiting.

Everything is finally checked off our lists. All three suitcases (oops! Did I say we were only taking two?) are packed and ready to go. We will be taking CalTrain to Bart to SFO tomorrow and then we’ll be on our way via Air France… first stop – Paris. See you there!

Show Me the Euros!

Usually when we travel overseas, we just exchange dollars for local currency when we get to the airport. However, for this trip I decided we needed to purchase some Euros ahead of time. We will be arriving  in Paris on a Saturday afternoon and will need a substantial sum in Euros to cover the balance owed for the rental of our apartment plus a hefty security deposit. I was concerned that it might be challenging to get this amount at the airport or somewhere in between there and the apartment. I didn’t want to fret about this during our 10 1/2 hour flight. I hope to be sleeping like a baby instead… yeah, right.

About 2 weeks ago I went to a branch of our bank near my workplace and inquired about ordering Euros. I was told I could order them any time during banking hours and that it would take about 3 business days for them to arrive. The exchange rate was somewhat higher than in France which adds up when your need a large amount. I was advised that I could check around for other rates such as those offered by the popular Travelex stores found in many shopping malls. Their exchange rate was even higher. Somewhere online I found some information stating that you could purchase Euros through AAA. It would be great if my membership actually provided me with some benefits I could use. Next step was to look into that. Turns out they no longer offer this service (of course!) but were willing to give me some advice = go to your bank or the travel exchange store in the mall. Hmmm… for this I pay AAA. Back to the bank I went, but a different branch this time — only to be amazed once again at the lack of service and knowledge that you get from any professional institution these days.

“Can I help you?” a too-young and obviously inexperienced customer service representative asked.

“I’d like to order some Euros.”

“Ok, just a minute, let me find out how to do that.”

Upon her return, she explained that Euros had to be ordered no later than 2PM. When I informed her I had been told other wise, she went to ask again but came back with the same information. However, she told me that I could order them online and it would be much easier plus I could order them any time of the day or night. Why is this? She said she didn’t know but it had something to do with how the money is moved around in San Francisco — not my paraphrase, her answer! Since previous experiences wiring money through my account online hadn’t been very intuitive, I asked her to explain to me exactly how to go about ordering the Euros…

“I don’t know. I’ve never done that. Let me find out.”

She stopped another employee and asked him but he stated he didn’t know either. She disappeared and finally returned with an informative post-it note which read: “Customer Service – Online Banking – Order FX”

She insisted there would only be three choices once I clicked on Customer Service which was partially true though each one had at least a dozen sub choices. I managed to navigate through the process fairly easily, but when I printed the confirmation page, I realized to my horror that the bank still had our 7-year old, no longer in service landline phone number from a previous residence listed. I had been told that the bank would call when the Euros arrived so I could pick them up. Frantically, I clicked back to the Customer Service tab and updated my profile with the correct phone number. I thought I’d better confirm that the people arranging for the Euros would be aware of this update so I used  Live Chat in an attempt to find out. There I learned that I needed to contact the Foreign Exchange Team by phone and that they were available until 6PM PT. Since it was only 5, I figured I could jump right on that and get to the bottom of the whole issue today. NOT! The recording I received stated that their hours ended at 5PM and they were closed. Well, there’s always another tomorrow, thank goodness!!

Epilogue: Finally got through all the red tape without any other snafus and voilá, I am now in possession of some beautiful new Euros bills. Unfortunately, they probably won’t last very long. 

Packing Our Bags

How does one pack only 2 bags for 2 people for 7 weeks anyway? For a long trip, the temptation is to take more things. Even though we are leasing a car once we leave Paris — larger and more luxurious than what we really need (it was such a deal – more on that later) with plenty of trunk capacity, we still have to get to and from Charles de Gaulle Airport and an apartment in the 14th Arrondissement 4 times during our stay without one. You just don’t want to be dragging all that luggage around on the Metro and through the streets of Paris. Aside from the inconvenience of it, you look like the worst tourist. Fortunately, it is summer and that definitely lightens the load in the wardrobe department. While I don’t want to be a slave to fashion on my vacation, I do want to keep a bit of style in mind as I plan what to pack. After all, we are starting off in the fashion capital of the world.

Someone once taught me that the trick to fitting it all in and keeping it organized is to use ziploc bags. I have employed this technique on other long vacations and found it to work very well. So I have purchased ziplocs in array of sizes including the super large ones which Rick Steves, my travel guru (hmmm… not really but he does have some good ideas) suggests make great washing machines when no other alternative is available — just fill with clothes, water, a little laundry soap & shake. As I understand it, ziplocs are not so easy to find in France which, of course, means they are probably smarter than we are about limiting the amount of waste they generate. To use the bags most efficiently, you roll your clothes, arrange as many items as possible in one bag, and ZIP it closed (I love that part) making sure to press out all the air. What you end up with is a neat little package that takes up about half as much space as those clothes normally would thus affording you the opportunity to take MORE!! in less space. This also allows you to moves portions of your wardrobe around in your suitcase in order to locate a particular item without having to unpack your whole bag.

When it comes to cosmetics, that is another issue entirely. You can divide everything up and put it in ziplocs too, but, frankly, I get tired of rooting around in the bags for a particular item. By the same token, I don’t really want to unpack it all at every stop. I decided that the best compromise is to use hanging cosmetic bags — a smaller one for makeup and a larger one for everything else. In some cases, I was able to buy travel-sized products, but for other things, I purchased travel-sized containers that I could fill myself. If you haven’t figured this out already, Bed, Bath, and Beyond has by far the largest selection of travel-sized items and containers. I went crazy there. For the length of time we will be away, it was necessary to prepare a backup ziploc of some items to replenish the bags as needed. With these two bags, I can experience the ease of setting up my vanity for one night or seven by simply unrolling them and hanging them on the back of any bathroom door. Ah, you say, what if there’s no hook? Well, I have that covered too — 2 over-the-door hooks that I am also taking along.

Getting the Adventure Rolling

We are packing our bags and taking off for 7 weeks in France. Sounds easy doesn’t it? Well, not quite. When my husband first announced it was time for us to make this trip we have dreamed of for years, I was very excited. Then I realized I had to get very busy. Seven weeks is a lot of time and provides endless possibilities, but you have to focus and plan ahead or really, it won’t be any fun. We started off with grandiose ideas and were going to include two other countries — Italy, the Cinque Terre & Spain, all of it. We planned to lease a car so we could virtually go anywhere.

A quick look at a map of Europe along with reading up on the devastation of last year’s floods to many towns in the Cinque Terre region immediately led me to eliminate that from our plan. Besides, my husband had done that in “another life” and I didn’t really want to repeat it with him. I wanted this trip to be uniquely ours. Then I got down to the serious business of planning a route from Paris south through France and into Spain. The route continued south as far as Morocco and made a complete loop returning north and ending up back in Paris. I added up the mileage (about 3500 miles), divided by 51 days, and came to the conclusion that this was going to be insane. I was getting hot, tired, and uncomfortable just thinking about this kind of trek especially through Spain in July. In the end, we cut out Spain and decided we would leave this for another adventure. I was briefly disappointed about giving this up since it has only been my desire to travel there since I was 18 and in college studying Spanish. I have foolishly forsaken this dream on several occasions, but suddenly it didn’t seem so important despite the fact that it was the one country where I could speak the language fluently.

So, now to focus on France. Ah, what a relief! Only one country the size of Texas to conquer. With my trusty AAA map taped to the closet door and a generous supply of those sticky post-it arrows, I proceeded to choose our destinations. Once I had figured out 5 separate 1-week stays and several great stops in between, it was time to make reservations for our lodging. That took about 2 solid weeks of non-stop research and e-mail exchanges. With the 9-hour time difference, I never received an immediate answer to my inquiries. It became a game of anticipation waking up early every morning before I went to work to see what exciting messages had arrived overnight.

Alas, I was faced with the task of having to make some phone calls and actually speak to people directly to confirm a couple of reservations. That was an interesting challenge. First, how do I make an international call on my cell phone — my only choice since I don’t have a landline. Turns out you have to call Verizon and get them to activate it – for a fee, of course. Then you have to figure out all the extra digits you have to dial to make the call work. Once you finally get the phone to ring on the other end, you hope and pray that when you say, “Parle vous anglais?” the answer is “Oui.” My French is 35-years old and I just wasn’t up to speed yet with Rosetta Stone to pull off an entire conversation. The people I spoke to were very accommodating. We both struggled but in the end made ourselves understood. With one gentleman, I kept wanting to lapse into Spanish. I figured any language other than English might be helpful. I didn’t but when I finally got an e-mail confirmation for our reservation from his wife, she admitted he spoke Spanish fluently. Ha! If only I had known. Somehow the struggle was part of the adventure though.

Eventually, one evening we were able to toast to the fact that I had nailed down reservations — great ones at that in price, amenities, and location — for 51 nights in France. Santé!!

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